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Chefs have returned to nature in ways ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous. The former would be the sudden rise in seasonal cooking, heritage breeds, rooftop gardens and pared-down, elegant cooking that focuses on food in an almost puritanical way. (Figs on a plate, anyone?). It gets ridiculous, however, when a chef like Michael Mina has ocean water flown in to a Las Vegas seafood restaurant to poach his fish in. At that point, we're talking Marie Antoinette and her dress-up milkmaids.