In the ascendant Zuma's blend of fine dining and smart but not stuffy ambiance earns it a stellar place in Hong Kong's restaurant scene
Zuma's opening party, in June of this year, typified Hong Kong at its worst. A laughably messianic invitation (issued as a slab of metal bearing the restaurant's name, but with no address or other details enclosed) summoned hundreds of what one would only describe in kindness as "VIPs" to the Landmark commercial complex to toast the new branch of Rainer Becker's Knightsbridge restaurant in a suffocating, five-deep-at-the-bar ordeal. How lovely, then, to return to Zuma some months later and realize that it is not a claustrophobic hellhole of anemic heirs and glassy-eyed "It" girls: it is, in fact, a...