Paris: 10 Things to Do

2. Le Fumoir

Paris City Guide Le Fumoir Hemis / Alamy
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Any restaurant-bar located near the Louvre Museum should be a tourist trap or overpriced. Remarkably, the consistently excellent Le Fumoir is neither. Under head chef Henrick Andersson, Le Fumoir serves brunch and dinner daily, and stays open late for a fine martini — or three. Try the stand-out appetizer, herrings marinated in xérès (sherry) with creamed cucumber on spiced bread. The restaurant's decor is discreet, clubby chic, with dark leather and smooth lacquer, and the book-lined rear dining room is wonderfully intimate. With Wi-Fi and a generous spread of international newspapers and magazines, it's also the ideal place to lay your plans for attacking the city's sights, many of which lie within striking distance (the front door of the Louvre is steps away).

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