Less Vegas: The Casino Town Bets on a Comeback

The casino town bet big on the real estate boom — and lost. But the rapid reset of home, hotel-room and casino prices has encouraged some in America's most optimistic city to go right back to the table

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Benjamin Lowy / VII for Time

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Others, like MGM Mirage, are in too deep. The few operating cranes in town are scattered among the 9,500 construction workers still crawling over CityCenter, an $8.4 billion, five-skyscraper, ultra-luxury project that is the largest privately financed development ever in the U.S. Although the company has managed to keep the project going through a desperate battle for financing deals with Dubai World, a number of people who signed up for condominiums are looking to bail. So MGM Mirage, which owns the most properties on Las Vegas Boulevard--the Strip--ducked and weaved around bankruptcy for six months earlier this year by pumping $140 million, almost a quarter of its monthly revenues, into the project. MGM sold off Treasure Island at a bargain price: Phil Ruffin, the buyer, paid the equivalent of $225,000 for each room on the property; CityCenter's rooms cost about $1.5 million each to build. Even if CityCenter is a big success and people want urban density as a part of their Vegas experience, experts like Bill Lerner, a gaming analyst at Union Gaming Group, figure it will be five to 10 years before Vegas needs more than the 150,000 or so hotel rooms it will have when CityCenter's 6,000 and the Cosmopolitan's 800 are completed. And if CityCenter tanks, Vegas will be holding some very bad cards.

The real estate mistakes on the Strip were made in miniature by thousands of Vegas homeowners. To see the real devastation, I have to leave the line of casinos along the Strip and drive to where people in Las Vegas actually live. I head out to spend the day with real estate agent Brooke Boemio, a bouncy, sweet, recently remarried 31-year-old mom whom I met years ago when I was on another assignment. Boemio is doing great during this recession. In fact, she's never had a job that paid as well: she made more than $100,000 last year. Even better, she's willing to show me how messed up the real estate scene is.

Boemio specializes in short selling, in a particularly Vegas way. Basically, she finds clients who owe more on their house than the house is worth (and that's about 60% of homeowners in Las Vegas) and sells them a new house similar to the one they've been living in at half the price they paid for their old house. Then she tells them to stop paying the mortgage on their old place until the bank becomes so fed up that it's willing to let the owner sell the house at a huge loss rather than dragging everyone through foreclosure. Since that takes about nine months, many of the owners even rent out their old house in the interim, pocketing a profit.

Tons of people were doing this, but there were consequences. Renters were being evicted, through no fault of theirs, with a couple of days' notice when the house finally went on the market. People are now paying a premium to live in apartment buildings, which in Vegas are almost always owned by a corporation. Sure, short selling damages the sellers' credit rating, but they just bought a new house, so they don't care.

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