(3 of 3)
In the meantime, an appealing new boutique hotel has opened close to the Spanish Steps. Aleph (Via di San Basilio) is conveniently located near the city's chic shops. Among them: Merola, Europe's oldest glove store (Via del Corso 143), where gloves are made as they were a century ago, entirely by hand. Elsewhere, some of Rome's best shopping is found in its sleek design stores. Ilaria Miani caters to an élite clientele (Via Monserrato 35), with everything from sugar bowls to bookcases. Spazio Sette (Via dei Barbieri 7) is three floors of cutting-edge design from all the big-name Italian brands.
Not far from the Pantheon, you can fuel up on the world's greatest espresso (and people watching) at Sant' Eustachio (Piazza Sant' Eustachio 82). Or walk around the market at Campo dei Fiori and the surrounding twisty streets, as well as the extremely lively Trastevere neighborhood.
When in Rome, reserve for lunch or risk going hungry. Everyone I've sent to the enoteca (wine bar) lunch spot Bleve (Via Santa Maria del Pianto) or the more elaborate Costanza (Piazza del Paradiso) has been forever grateful. On a grander scale, for dinner, there is the multistarred La Pergola (Cavalieri Hilton, Via Cadlolo 101), where Heinz Beck provides a gastronomic feast while diners overlook the city in all its splendor.
The religious and the profane mix in Rome, and never more than during the Christmas holiday season. The Fair of the Befana explodes in the baroque Piazza Navona on Dec. 8 and continues until Jan. 6. Befana, a witchlike character, is said to arrive in homes on Epiphany to bring toys and sweets to good children and a lump of coal to naughty ones. Also during the holidays, all of Rome traipses from one church to another to view the ancient Nativity crèches. The oldest is believed to be the 13th century crèche of Arnolfo di Cambio, in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. For the truly devout, the marathon midnight Mass at St. Peter's Basilica is free, but reservations are required (they can be made by fax: 39-06-6988-5863).
A fun option for New Year's Eve is the open-air festivity of fireworks and live concerts in the Piazza del Popolo. Or you can book tickets for the New Year's Eve concerts at the Church of San Paolo Entro Le Mura. Just as in the other two greatest cities of Europe, the holidays in Rome offer a piquant blend of familiar pleasures in a not-so-usual time or place.
Rome Online