London, Paris, and Rome are the Holy Trinity of travel. They offer some of the world's finest hotels, food and culture. But during the sunny high season, lines are long, tickets are maddeningly elusive and dinner reservations--forget it. Here's my advice: Follow the smart travelers and take advantage of these destinations during the cooler weather that lies just ahead. Each of these cities has its charms during the off-season--plus bargains and breathing room. So pack your weather insurance (long johns and an umbrella) and set off on a kinder, gentler--and less expensive--European experience.
LONDON
I'm fond of London's Knightsbridge-Kensington area for convenience. It provides easy access to the West End and other points, and it teems with museums, shops and restaurants. Its trendiest new hotel is the Baglioni, just opposite Kensington Gardens. As I was having tea in the lobby recently, I looked up from checking my e-mail to catch sight of Michelle Pfeiffer and Julianne Moore checking out. A more classic London experience can be had down the road at the Milestone or in nearby Notting Hill at the Portobello Hotel, where my romantic room, complete with deep Victorian tub and round bed, amused me.
Eating in London nowadays is seriously good. Amaya (Halkin Arcade, 19 Motcomb Street), one of the best Indian restaurants in town, grills up inventive fish and vegetables bursting with new spices. The full-throttle flavors of master chef Gordon Ramsay are available at two venues: you can dine in luxury at Claridge's Hotel (55 Brook Street) or try to snag a reservation at his new Maze (10-13 Grosvenor Square), which draws a younger, louder crowd.
A bright new feature of London cuisine is the gastro-pub genre (pubs with a serious chef installed). I particularly like the Cow (89 Westbourne Park Road) and the Eagle (159 Farringdon Road). And in case you weren't sure, the British love of tea is back. Tea Palace (175 Westbourne Grove) gets a trendy crowd, while traditionalists still love the scones and clotted cream at the Savoy Hotel, on the Strand.
For offbeat shopping, try the Bermondsey Market, near the London Bridge tube station, on Friday mornings (get there before 9). You can snare some finds among the eccentric bits and bobs and vintage silver treasures. The English major in me is excited about the February show at the Tate Britain, "Gothic Nightmares: Fuseli, Blake and the Romantic Imagination." While most museums are free, you'll need to buy a ticket for this exhibition. The National Portrait Gallery has unveiled a much discussed new painting of a forlorn-looking J.K. Rowling, author of the Harry Potter series. While in this hood, you can pick up half-price theater tickets at the TKTS booth in Leicester Square. The show with the buzz will be at the Old Vic in February, when film director Robert Altman stages one of Arthur Miller's final plays, Resurrection Blues.
London Online
•toptable.co.uk
PARIS
Paris has a breathless winter beauty when the sun goes down early and the lights on the Seine start their long nightly twinkle.