Quotes of the Day
Three and a half years ago, minimalist designer Jil Sander
stormed out of her fashion house after taking umbrage at the
dictatorial ways of Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli, who bought her
company in 1999. In May, four months after her noncompete clause
expired, Sander returned to the fashion house she founded when
she was just 24. With sales at Jil Sander flat in 2002, it was
good news for Bertelli. TIME's Lauren Goldstein caught up with
Sander at the Milan men's shows, where she was unveiling her
first collection since coming home.
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Q: Three years without working? Lucky you! What did you do with
all that time off?
A: I still had 25% of the voting shares, so I was naturally
involved with the company. Bertelli and I talked constantly while
I was away. But I also tried to be distanced. I was trying to
find a way not to be a dork. I went sailing for five weeks. I
traveled through Russia, to St. Petersburg, looking at churches.
I did some gardening. I also started to learn about the business
side.
Q: How so?
A: I read analysts' reports and the financial papers. I know when
I pick fabrics that I can pick the right one, but each analyst
said something different.
Q: So you were trading stocks?
A: I have been reading a lot about the stock market, but when I
started, I didn't know how to work a computer--or even a mobile
phone. I also knew the economy was falling down. It was a very
interesting experience. I'm not a gambler. The market is like a
language, and you have to be able to understand what they're
saying.
Q: Did that help you come to an agreement with Bertelli?
A: It's very natural for me to come back to Jil Sander and help
the company with financial things. I think it will grow very
fast. You know we [Jil Sander] went public in 1989. So I was used
to the planning, used to putting out an annual report. The market
gave us discipline as well as capital to grow. When I did the
partnership with Prada, I thought I knew all I needed to know.
But we had misunderstandings about how to move forward.
Q: What do you see as areas of growth for the company?
A: My first priority is the product. Then I want to work on our
distribution. Then there is so much: lifestyle, interiors.
Q: The company made some big moves while you were away--new
stores, a new perfume. Do you approve of them all?
A: The new fragrance is a revival of one of my original
ones--Woman Pure. This one, Jil Sander Pure, was presented to me
four weeks before it was presented to the press. They brought it
out on a silver dish and said, "We thought about you the whole
time." It was very emotional because they remembered what I had
taught them. As for the stores, I was with the company when we
found the London space. It's a very special house. It's like a
beautiful toy.
Q: Which of those rumors about your toying with companies like
Banana Republic and Hermes were true?
A: I spoke to many people, but I could not do anything. Thank God
for that noncompete clause!
Q: What was the first thing you did when you got back?
A: I said, "Get me 15 white shirts, quick!" It [the hiatus] was
the first time in a long time I shopped for myself. No one does
nice plain white shirts anymore except Yohji [Yamamoto].
Q: Which brings us to the question of the demise of minimalism, a
movement you helped popularize. Are rumors about its death
exaggerated?
A: There was a time when minimalism was the key word. I think
there is always a need for pure design. With pure design, you
don't need so much decoration. Today a lot of things are only
surface minded. I have a lot of fantasy. I'm very playful, but I
know who we [Jil Sander] are, and I need to find a balance so
that it is still sophisticated.
Q: How does it feel to be back?
A: Everyone is happy. Even the new people are very happy.
- Lauren Goldstein