Quotes of the Day

Saturday, Sep. 23, 2006

Open quoteAlmost everyone knows that Venice is threatened by the encroaching waters of its lagoon; the solution remains elusive. But those who pilot the city's gondolas are moving to preserve their legendary occupation from a rising tide of bad taste.

Brightly colored carpets, gilded statues, Christmas-tree lights and other garish decorations could disappear from the famous banana-shaped boats as soon as September, under regulations proposed by the Venetian Gondoliers' Association.

Such departures from the classic gondola aesthetic of dark hues and spare ornamentation have proliferated in recent years, part of a general weakening of tradition in the fast-depopulating and tourist-ridden city. If the city council approves the association's proposals, misplaced bling could cost gondoliers their licenses.

The association has also proposed a required training course of nearly a year's duration, in which prospective gondoliers will study not only the care and steering of their craft, but some of its rich 1,000-year history. Supporters hope that the course will make up for the lack of the once-standard 15-year apprenticeship. "Once upon a time, these traditions were passed on from father to son," says Roberto Luppi, president of the association. "But today, unless the rules are written down, everyone does what he wants."

Standards are all well and good — but can they make the gondoliers stop singing O Sole Mio? Close quote

  • FRANCIS X. ROCCA
  • City fathers act to stem a rising tide of bad taste
Photo: GUGLIELMO DE MICHELI for TIME