Uri is a market town in a Kashmiri valley of preternatural beauty which, for half a century, has been on the front line of one of the world's most dangerous conflicts. On Saturday, nature turned on Uri, too. Around 9 a.m., an earthquake measuring 7.6 on the Richter scale—the strongest in Pakistan since 1935—struck just west of the Line of Control, along which India and Pakistan have fought two wars and countless skirmishes. The quake, centered 95 km north of Islamabad and felt as far away as Kabul and New Delhi, struck fear into a battle-hardened population. "I'm 86," says Gul Muhammad Butt, a resident of Srinagar in Indian-controlled Kashmir. "Never in my life have I experienced anything like it."
The worst damage was in Pakistan, where on Sunday the government predicted a death toll of at least 18,000. Military rescue pilots, diverted from scouring the Afghan-Pakistan border for al-Qaeda and Taliban forces, witnessed scores of mountain villages pulverized by landslides. Officials say that the town of Muzaffarabad, with a population of more than 100,000, was 70% destroyed. In Islamabad, a 10-story apartment block collapsed, trapping scores of people. "I thought doomsday had fallen," says Abdur Rashid Hajjam, coming out of prayers at a Sufi shrine in Srinagar.