Friday, Apr. 02, 2010

9. Bridge of Sighs, as Seen From Chala

The Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros) is a lovely wooden structure spanning the Bajada de Baños, a stone walkway that runs down to the Pacific through Lima's bohemian district, Barranco. This comely neighborhood was the place to be in the 19th century and retains its laid-back charm today; there are lots of bars and restaurants in Barranco, plus views of the water, and it's worth strolling around here for an afternoon.

The best place to sit and contemplate the Bridge of Sighs and the ocean behind it is Chala. This unassuming Peruvian restaurant is located in a restored manor, with a long porch shaded by ancient, towering ficus trees. Chala's food and drink are as refreshing as its setting. The pisco sour is dry with just right amount of froth, and sipping one at a porch-side table is an unforgettable experience. Co-owner and Peruvian congressman Carlos Bruce recommends the saltado characato de lomito, strips of sautéed beef and chilis on a bed of refried garbanzo beans, accompanied by tempura-style plantains. Finish with the mango cheesecake ($8).