Spoiled for Choice on Nevis

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Vinita Agarwal

Towering reputation The Montpelier's Indigo is a must

On Nevis, as Kaddy, the ebullient barman of Montpelier Plantation Inn, says, "the dining do mellow." And indeed, the exceptional choice of eating contained in just under 95 sq km is one of the reasons why it's so easy to bliss out on this lush, low-key Caribbean island. Better still, most of the produce is farmed and fished locally and the dining scene is constantly evolving. Here are four great places to check out.

INDIGO
Newly open on weekend evenings at the Montpelier Plantation Inn is Indigo, tel: (1-869) 469 3462. Its menu offers inspired sharing dishes, tapas-style, but with a Caribbean accent: try mahi-mahi tartare, sesame tempura shrimp or steak with chimichurri sauce, served with stupendous views of the island's famed peak.

GOLDEN ROCK INN
Coinciding with a dramatic extension of its dining area by Aman Resort designer Ed Turtle, this popular resort, tel: (1-869) 469 3346, now boasts well-known British-born chef Janice Ryan. Her dishes highlight the importance of marinades and seasonings — especially allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers — to the very best Caribbean cooking. Outstanding are conch chowder, coconut-water-and-rum shrimp salad and spice-rubbed snapper with tamarind.

THE COAL POT
This new venture by fourth-generation locals is not to be missed. Located at Rawlins, a vibrantly colored village of colonial clapperboard chattel houses at Herbert Heights, the Coal Pot, tel: (1-869) 665 6926, offers stunning views from its 365-meter elevation and a menu of local favorites from chef Llewellyn Clarke, who trained at London's Le Caprice and Ivy restaurants. Try the seared local fish with thyme.

BANANAS BISTRO
Hidden high in the tropical rainforest, this charmingly boho restaurant, tel: (1-869) 469 1891, features a wraparound veranda and art-filled interior. The menu mixes Spanish, North African and even Thai flavors with Caribbean ingredients to delicious effect. Don't miss the spiced lobster cakes.