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Surprisingly, little more than a generation ago this jewel didn't even exist. Lake Powell was not formed until after 1963, when the government built a huge dam in Glen Canyon to control the waters of the Colorado River and generate hydroelectric power for the growing Southwest. The project outraged environmentalists and archaeologists because it submerged ancient homes, wall writings and burial grounds of the ancient Puebloans. It took 17 years for the Colorado River and other tributaries to fill the gorges and turn Lake Powell into the nation's second largest man-made lake. (Only Lake Mead, which borders Arizona and Nevada, is bigger.)
We drove up to the Wahweap Lodge, a sleek-looking hotel by the water's edge, and eyed the 60 or so houseboats bobbing at anchor, ranging in size from the 36-ft. Standard class, which sleeps six, up to the 60-ft. Admiral, which can bed more than 10. All the rental boats and the five marinas scattered around the 186-mile-long lake are owned and operated by the Aramark Corp., the concessionaire for the National Park Service. Before turning in for the night, we had a little preparation to do. I gave the video on houseboat safety my undivided attention. And by the time I finished the paperwork--from insurance forms to preparing passenger-manifest records--I felt as if I'd bought the boat, not rented it.
The next morning, we marched down to the marina to meet Steve Ward, an Aramark official who, at 52, has spent more than 30 years on Lake Powell. "O.K., are you ready to see your Admiral houseboat?" he asked. Before any of us could respond, there it was--every bit as enormous as I had imagined it in my worst anxiety attack. Once we were inside, though, the angst turned to wonder. It looked more like a luxury two-story condo in Trump Tower than a boat. The Admiral came with a fully equipped kitchen, a large oval dining table that could comfortably seat eight, four private bedrooms, two bathrooms, central air conditioning, an outdoor barbecue grill, a large TV, VCR and CD player, and cockpit controls. That was just the lower deck. Up top was a second cockpit, a wet bar and another refrigerator. Our girls zeroed in on what counted most for them--a steep water slide right off the top deck.
The amenities didn't stop there. Exploring the lake solely from a houseboat is too slow and costly, since the Admiral cruises at just 10 m.p.h. and guzzles 1.5 gal. of gasoline per mile. Most renters add on a separate speedboat, to be towed astern. Practical houseboaters tend to moor the big vessel on a secluded beach and use the faster, more fuel-efficient powerboat for recreation and exploration.
It was time to don my captain's hat. Question was, Could I drive, er, pilot a two-story house? During the next several hours, Steve gave us a crash course on how to operate the high-powered generator, prime the engine, use the toilet, work the marine radio and anchor the boat. Under his watchful eye, I soon settled into the captain's chair to take over the wheel. And then, good news! It became obvious that driving a houseboat--even a 60-footer--is a snap. Its dual engines powered us so smoothly over the lake that we wouldn't have spilled a drop from a glass full of water.