Fall Preview: Autumn Ascendant

O.K., so this summer wasn't all that inspiring, culturally speaking. But fall is on the way with an onslaught of what promises to be more uplifting endeavors. Herewith a selective guide to some of the

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JOLSON: THE MUSICAL This tribute to the Mammy singer was a hit in London. Mike Burstyn stars in the U.S. tour, beginning next month in Cleveland, Ohio.

FOOTLOOSE You loved the movie...Oh, you didn't? Well, maybe you'll go for the stage version, which just started a pre-Broadway run in Washington.

GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL

Why: This 1913 Beaux Arts gem is one of America's grandest buildings. But it had fallen into neglect and clutter. Now architects Beyer Blinder Belle have brought back its luster. They reopened walkways, top right, and restored the ethereal ceiling over the main concourse, left. Upscale businesses like Michael Jordan's steak house, bottom, add new sparkle. When: Official rededication Oct. 1.

HELMUT LANG Fall Collection, Spring Show

Why: The designer, whose reputation was built on clothes of spare Germanic coolness splashed with a kinky technotwist, moved to New York City from Vienna in March. It wasn't long before he had unzipped a few ideas that had the Seventh Avenue establishment agog. First, he showed his entire fall collection in teensy pictures on the Internet, where (the horror!) anyone, not just an elite corps of editors, buyers and fashion insiders, could have a look at them. Now he's moved his spring show, which takes place in the fall, to September rather than waiting (the nerve!) until November after the London, Milan and Paris shows. Calvin Klein immediately joined the rebellion, as did Donna Karan and several others. It's not unusual for Lang to be copied. He's credited with bringing us the stretchy T, rubber dresses and a whole slew of offbeat new materials. For this fall, tired of being the fabric frontiersman, he worked instead with layering--Can he bring capes back?--and unusual forms. His colors--white, black, camel and a zing of lemon--were like him: plain but hip. When: Fall collection in stores now. Spring collection to be shown in New York City on Sept. 17.

GRAY FOR YOUR ANATOMY Storm clouds, very dead leaves, the rocks one passes on long fall walks: who knows what the inspiration is, but this season gray is red hot. Almost any gray will do, from a steely blue to a light fog. Just keep it bleak...and chic.

UNPLAIN JANES If you loved spring's strappy shoes, there's no need to go cold turkey for fall. Move on to Mary Janes, like these tweedy Miu Miu showstoppers.

LONG AND PLEATED The folks at Gucci call this magnificent skirt navy, but it looks iron gray to us. Long, but not flowing, it's a uniform for women with real legs.

FUNNEL NECK Designers are keeping the silhouette soft, so sweaters like DKNY's are big. And loose.

A SPLASH One great thing about gray is that it makes every other hue pop. It works best with one colorful thing, so if you want the wine Bottega Veneta hat, opt for the charcoal scarf.

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