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Even as Anglo designers reach over to borrow from Spanish traditions, many Hispanic designers are seeking to break out of the constrictions of stereotype. Fort-Brescia, 36, and the stars of his 65-member firm, Arquitectonica, have designed some of the most arresting modernistic buildings in Miami, Washington and Los Angeles. "I think there is a misconception that / Hispanic influence means that everything has to look like Spain did three centuries ago," says Fort-Brescia. "To me it doesn't translate into arched colonnade."
FASHION
In fashion, as in design, the Latin influence lies largely in shape and color, and styles merge from a variety of separate traditions. From lavish dresses full of movement and mythology, bolero jackets trimmed in antique Spanish beads, toreador pants and an opulent flower at the shoulder, the look is bold, baroque and, for more and more women, irresistible.
Just as the mention of Coco Chanel conjures up the essence of French style, so does the name Cristobal Balenciaga evoke Hispanic style. The legendary Spanish designer, who died in 1972, reigned over high fashion from the 1930s to the 1960s with his sleek chemises and pillbox hats. Among his students were Adolfo, Oscar de la Renta, Givenchy, Ungaro and Courreges. Herrera calls Balenciaga the "greatest designer of all time," while De la Renta traces his use of ethnic accents to the master's influence: "Balenciaga made the most beautiful folkloric clothes ever made."
Leaving aside the high-profile pantheon of De la Renta, Adolfo and Herrera, some of the hottest young designers are building their collections and reputations around traditional Latin styles. Fernando Sanchez's luxurious lingerie, Isabel Toledo's topstitched, balloon-shaped skirts, Angel Estrada's sexy satin bustiers all have an unmistakable flair that is setting the standard for many designers across the country. "A Latin sensibility in fashion design is apparent in nuances," says Penny Harrison, a co-founder of Hispanic Designers Inc., "in a certain flair, elegance or the use of vivid color."
Among non-Hispanic designers, the popularity of Spanish lines, like the current vogue for Christian Lacroix's exuberance, is in part a reaction against the restrained styles of the past few years. "We went through a period in which we looked very severe," says Karl Logan, a Los Angeles-based designer whose collections have borrowed such Latin touches as high-waisted pants and cropped jackets trimmed with beaded fringe. "People want something that is more refreshing and uplifting," he insists. Young designers of all cultural extractions are working to capture the best elements of Spanish design and create a distinctive, hybrid style. "I try to bring it up to date," says Logan. "None of us wants to go around looking like we're wearing a costume from MGM."
Jessica McClintock, another hot West Coast designer, has also tried to play off of traditional Spanish costumes. "The shapes are stronger but simpler," she says of her silhouettes, "not old-time Spanish with ruffles." Though Latin shapes and detailing are showing up in sportswear lines, McClintock suggests that the richness of Spanish fashion is best reserved for evening wear. "Women are now wearing things that make grand-entrance statements," she says.