Food: Fancy Is as Fancy Does

New taste fashions for the gourmet trade

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Finding anything worth eating in this morass of haute junque proved as difficult as avoiding thorns among roses. Still, there were a few honest and tempting candidates that rate consideration for fall shopping lists. The most esoteric and intriguing are caper berries from Spain, which have the same piquant tingle as the smaller, more familiar caper. Attached to their stems, these berries could become the status garnish of the year, perhaps replacing olives or lemon twists in martinis. Finnish bakers have a way with malty, palate-scrubbing sourdough rye crisp breads; the latest welcome entry is Kings Bread, crackling thin and cut into elegantly long and narrow shapes. No less delicious and even more delicate are the translucent golden Swiss Cocktail Wafers made by HUG, equally good seasoned with caraway or cheese.

Those who like it hot should be more than satisfied with the incendiary Cajun-style blend of black and cayenne peppers, herbs and spices in Blackened Spice Marinade, from Taylor Maid in Jackson, Miss. The powdered mix works its fiery magic on burgers, grilled chicken and shrimp. And if that is not hot enough, munch on crunchy "red hot blue" corn chips from Garden of Eatin' in Santa Monica.

Those who like it sweet can indulge in the down-home flavor of pecan-butter brittle confected by Buckley's Candies of Louisiana. Sophisticated and pricier are some imports from Belgium: Le Chocolatier Manon's bittersweet chocolates filled with mandarin orange liqueur and burnt caramel. Even more stunning is its big marbleized chocolate scallop shell that holds nine chocolate praline fruits de mer -- mussels, crayfish and shrimp -- a dessert that delights the eye as much as the palate.

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