Sear's Sizzling New Vitality

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behind: huge, studied, deliberate, sometimes surprisingly innovative. It is not only the world's largest retailer but something of an industrial conglomerate as well.

About 11,000 companies make products for Sears. Some of the firms are well known. France's Michelin makes Sears RoadHandler steel-belted radial tires; Hamilton Beach supplies many of its tabletop kitchen appliances; Sunbeam provides irons; Singer makes Craftsman electric drills; Sanyo, Hitachi and Toshiba produce Sears television sets, stereos and videocassette recorders. Most of the suppliers, though, are unknown outside their industries, firms like Irwin B. Schwabe of Great Neck, N.Y., a shirt supplier and the largest maker of flannel shirts in the U.S.

Sears has 366 buyers and 302 assistant buyers, each assigned to a Sears product line, to watch over its purchases. Department 622, for example, is cooking-center appliances. Five buyers deal with three rangemakers, two dishwasher sources, one garbage-compactor company and one microwave-oven maker.

Sears is such a large and welcome customer to many U.S. companies that it can breed an unhealthy dependence. In recent years Sears has encouraged its suppliers to seek other markets. Sears takes 43% of Whirlpool's $2.7 billion annual sales of dishwashers, dryers and clotheswashers, which it sells under its own Kenmore name. Whirlpool has a Sales to Sears department that caters to the retailer's specifications. The relationship has gone on for 65 years, with no written contract. Says Donna McLean, a Whirlpool official: "Any customer who represents 43% of your business is going to carry a lot of weight." Sears owns no factories outright, but it does own large shares of some of its suppliers. It has 33% of Roper, its range-maker, 31% of De-Soto, which supplies paints, and 20% of Swift, its textiles provider.

The suppliers' products must meet the standards of the Sears product-testing labs, which are in the company's original headquarters on Chicago's West Side and in the Sears Tower. The labs were started in 1911 with a single chemist, but have evolved into a full-fledged testing organization that employs 138 engineers and technicians who run evaluations on 10,000 products annually. Mattresses are rolled over 100,000 times with a 225-lb. wooden cylinder. Leather boots spend hours dunked in pools of water or strapped to automatic walking machines. Toilets are flushed 100,000 times—once a minute, day and night—to assure dependability. Last year 2,239 products were field-tested.

The lab conducts exhaustive quality-value reviews, reacting sometimes to customer complaints about socks that fall apart or water-softening systems that turn on when they are not supposed to. Sometimes tests are run for no particular reason and turn up problems. The test lab has just completed a review of eight pieces of Sears luggage, plus 20 more from competitors, including Samsonite and American Tourister. The luggage was frozen to 20° below zero and then dropped two feet. Result: one of the Sears bags was rated "below grade."

Technicians in the labs come up with ideas of their own that find their way into Sears products. Engineer-Manager Jim Roach estimates that 1,000 patents have been granted to Sears since 1930. Few innovations have been startingly new or involved complex technology; they

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