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There are times when Bobby talks of retiring, of breeding the best Polled Hereford herd in the world. He probably will, some day. But not at 29, not when the winds turn chill, not when the pucks start flying and the artificial ice coats the pipes of arenas around the N.H.L. "Nobody loves hockey more than I do," he says. When the ice freezes, Bobby Hull is that kid from Point Anne, Ont., who got up in the dawn, put on the porridge pot, and skated until he was finally dragged home to bed.