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"If Mademoiselle Chanel has reigned over fashion," mused Jean Cocteau some time ago, "it is not because she cut women's hair, married silk and wool, put pearls on sweaters, avoided poetic labels on her perfumes, lowered the waistline or raised the waistline and obliged women to follow her directives; it is because—outside of this gracious and robust dictatorship—there is nothin» in her era that she has missed."