Fashion: Next, the Maxiskirt?

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Now that the miniskirt is being sported 8 in. above the knee, it is apparent that the only possible direction for hemlines is down. The question is when? The answer, according to a number of designers: as early as next fall.

Egged on by Paris' Coco Chanel, who calls the miniskirt "the most absurd weapon woman has ever employed to seduce men," two of France's biggest ready-to-wear designers, Daniel Hechter and Jacques Delahaye, are now showing "maxi jupes" for autumn that reach all the way down to the midcalf. Hechter and Delahaye, who sell to leading department stores the world over, including Bonwit Teller and Neiman Marcus, are receiving orders for them by the thousands. In the U.S., three fast-rising young ready-to-wear designers—Coty Award Winner Dominic of Matty Talmack, plus Chester Weinberg and Luba of Elite—are suggesting the "midi dress," with hem 4 in. below the knee. And in London, where the miniskirt was invented, such young mod newcomers as Ossie Clarke and Roland Klein are including mid-calf lengths in their fall lines. Says Clarke: "This summer will be one last fling to show your legs. Next year the idea will be to wrap 'em up warm."

Maybe. But for the moment, at least, the new maxis or midis seem not so much a threat to the miniskirt as an alternative. "The midi will get time, but not equal time with the mini," predicts Henri Bendel President Geraldine Stutz. She sees the midi as "a great outfit with boots and winter coats and a charming new look for evening," a change of pace from today's popular caftans and hostess pajamas. "It is very possible that skirts will drop during the next few seasons," says Dior's Marc Bohan, but adds: "The change will be gradual; the knee will still remain visible for some time to come."