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Touches of Capri's onetime elegance remain. Villas offering a view of Capri's cliffs and of the blue-green sea still command prices as high as $160,000. Celebrities still flock to Canzone del Mare (Song of the Sea), the pleasant seaside pavilion operated by British Comedienne Gracie Fields. But inexorably the box-lunch crowd is evicting the international set. Last week, when Greek Shipping Magnate Aristotle Onassis moored his yacht off Capri, such Onassis guests as the Winston Churchills and Opera Star Maria Callas did not even bother to go ashore. Sighs Gracie Fields: "Alcatraz was a beautiful island, too."