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Budapest, Hungary. "Wearied of aeroplaning, I took a wagon-lit (sleeping car) from Belgrade to Budapest—the city that has fallen heir to the gayety that was Vienna.
"All the world knows of the Hungarian franc forging scandal (TIME, Jan. 18 et seq.), as a result of which it appeared for a time that the whole Hungarian Cabinet would be branded as the accomplices of forgers. My guide informed me that Premier Count Stephen Bethlen has been entirely whitewashed by the courts; but on the morning when I arrived the Count proceeded to make a show of his complete innocence by resigning with his cabinet. The Hungarian Regent, Admiral Horthy, thereupon paraded his confidence in Premier Bethlen by refusing to accept his resignation. My guide winked assurance that the Premier and Regent of the 'kingless kingdom* of Hungary understand one another perfectly.
"As luncheon time approached I avoided the too celebrated local gulyas (goulash) but found delicious another Magyar dish, chicken spiced with various condiments. The afternoon was spent in exploring the old and modern castles of Buda and the shops, boulevards, subway, and parks of Pest. These two cities (Buda and Pest) lie on either side of the Danube and form together the Capital (Budapest). Since it was already late, the Royal Opera was indicated and fulfilled its reputation as among the finest in Europe." Vienna, Austria. "Four hours by rail sufficed to reach Vienna between breakfast time and luncheon. Grown used to falling cabinets, I accepted as natural the fact that Chancellor (Premier) Rudolf Ramek had at last been forced to the wall by the many disgruntled office holders whom he has dismissed as a matter of national economy. The entire civil service—the most rapaciously organized bureaucracy in Europe—had virtually threatened to strike if their combined salaries were not raised by the staggering total of 3,081,000,000 kronen ($445,000,000). Chancellor Ramek prudently evaded responsibility for unbalancing his budget by resigning. During the week President Michael Hainisch gave no inkling of whom he would call to the Chancellory.
"While the matter waited, there waited also for inspection the superb Kaiserliche-Königliche Hofburg (Imperial and Royal Palace), the onetime residence of Franz-Josef, and all the now decadent chateaux and pleasure resorts of the former Austro-Hungarian nobility. The night sparkle of Vienna is gone but its substantial daylight glories remain."
*Main posts in the new cabinet:
Antonin Svehla Premier Dr. Edouard Benes Foreign Affairs Dr. Karel Englis Finance Dr. Jan Sramek Social Welfare Robert Mayr-Hartung Justice
*An international celebrity since his election as President of the Seventh Assembly of the League of Nations (TIME, Sept. 20).
*Admiral Nicholas Horthy de Nagybanya acts as regent for the kingdom of Hungary because the Allies will not yet allow the people to have what a majority of them almost certainly want, a Habsburg king