During a mid-1880s visit to Shamian, the Shaoguan-based Wesleyan missionary John Turner described "a beautiful island, fronted with lawns and flower gardens, with the foreign consular and merchants' houses standing behind them, on either side of an avenue of banyan trees." That quaint scene greets today's visitors, too, thanks largely to late-'90s restoration, a combination of government and private initiatives. All of the old buildings now bear plaques describing their history, which makes a walking tour of the 3-sq-km island both possible and pleasant.
For example, the old Anglican Churchacross from the White Swan Hotellanguished as a warehouse for years after the Cultural Revolution; it has since reopened and resumed religious services. Walk east along Shamian Nan Jie about 200 m, past the old Butterfield & Swire officesthe Jardine Matheson godowns were up the street to your leftand you're at the former British consulate, built in 1865. Retirees often practice Cantonese opera in the park across the street.
Past the park and tennis courts is the French section. Turn left on Shamian Yi Jie to check out the Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church. Or go straight until you see the Trees Caf, built on the site of the old French Gardens, across the street from the former consulate. For diversions, souvenir shops and cafs abound, as well as a new furniture exhibition hall. It's also worth noting that there are several decent hotels on Shamianso unlike in bygone times, you won't have to go to war to stay there.