There was a comical moment in the front row at a recent runway show in Paris when two magazine editors in sharply tailored jackets had to pivot awkwardly in their seats to make room for their linebacker shoulder pads. Not since Tess McGill suited up to outwit her boss in Working Girl in 1988 have big shoulders played such a prominent role in fashion. For fall, designers like Michael Kors, Donna Karan and Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent showed structured jackets, enlisting the signature '80s power tool to try to give shaky consumers some self-assurance--and, they hope, a reason to shop.
"We could all use a little confidence right now," says Kors, "and jackets are the best way to get the armor, strength and power." After seasons of disposable dresses worn with soft little cardigans (thank you, Michelle Obama), the jacket just might provide a boost to slipping apparel sales. "It's the women who work who are shopping," Kors adds. "They're the ones who still have to get dressed. And they need confidence. Look what suits and jackets did for men."
Given the current unemployment rate, traditionally tailored clothing takes on a whole new allure. "Many people are out of work. They're looking for jobs, going on interviews," notes Colleen Sherin, fashion market director of Saks Fifth Avenue. "A jacket and the idea of protection and security that it brings can really give a woman confidence."
Retailers, too, could use a little lift. They see the structured jacket, albeit not quite as broad-shouldered as in the Dynasty era, as an investment piece. "You can wear a jacket in many different ways," with a skirt or with pants, for instance, says Sherin. "Any item that has multiuse will be successful in this market."
Some designers don't mind the Krystle Carrington references, while others claim the new look isn't a throwback. "I hate to call it '80s," says Karl Lagerfeld, who showed sculpted shoulders for Chanel. "It's more about a flawless look. It's about cut, quality and the silhouette." Whatever it is, just don't make Tess McGill's mistake and pair the new power suit with sneakers.