It is early evening and the bells from the campanile of the Catholic cathedral are ringing. There is a smell of bourganvilia in the air, Vespas buzz around like demented wasps and on the main drag it seems like the whole population is out taking a passagiata. Teenage girls throw flirtatious glances at gaggles of guys dipping into cafes for cappuccinos; old men sit playing chess and reminiscing about things past; and in restaurants diners are tucking into pizza siciliana and fetuccine alla marinara. Ah, the joys of Italy. Except that this is all taking place thousands of miles from Rome in a corner of Africa best known for its wars, famines and droughts: Asmara, capital of Eritrea and one of the continents least known and, in many ways, least African cities.
Like Cubans, Eritreans have preserved their the colonial heritage in aspic and harbor little resentment towards their former rulers. Café-owners proudly polish their 50-year-old espresso machines, the yellow Fiat Cinquecentos that double as cabs are neatly buffed up and the neoclassical Governors Palace on Liberation Avenue has been lovingly restored.
Given the amount of money the Italians pumped into Eritrea during the first half of the 20th century, it is not surprising that older locals get misty-eyed talking about the past. Aside from building art deco cinemas and replicas of Tuscan villas, the Italians constructed a railway line between Asmara and the Red Sea port of Massawa. During Eritreas 30-year struggle for independence, the lines sleepers were ripped out to prop up trenches. But the Italian-built road snaking 100 km down from the plateau to the sea passes through some of the most spectacular scenery in the region.
Visitors with a few days on their hands should drive down it, as much for the journey as the final destination. Formerly known as the Pearl of the Red Sea, the once bustling port of Massawa now lies in ruins after being pounded by Ethiopia during the 1999 border war. But it is has some fabulous fish restaurants, beautiful Byzantine buildings and fine sandy beaches. It is also the gateway to the Dahlak archipelago — 350 islands providing some of the best diving in the world.
Unlike most other towns in Eritrea, Asmara escaped serious damage during the struggle for independence and the recent flare-up with Ethiopia. However, it is impossible to escape the effects of war. One-legged former soldiers hobble round on crutches; ex-combatants greet each other by bumping shoulders like duelling rhinos; and shops are full of posters of 1970s freedom fighters with Afros and tight shorts.
Everyone you speak to has a story to tell about the decades of conflict, which turned one of Africas richest countries into one of its poorest. A maths teacher accosts me in a bar and regales me with tales of 20 years of hand-to-hand fighting in the trenches. "I am a fighter," he says. "I dont like peace." However, most people in Asmara seem relieved that the latest scrap with Ethiopia, which left tens of thousands dead and hundreds of thousands homeless, is finally over. Driver Sisai Mesfun, who spent five years fighting and has two young children, tells me: "I hope they never have to go to war like I did."
Thanks to the presence of thousands of United Nations troops, there is little chance of the conflict flaring up again. But the situation still remains tense after the recent crackdown on dissidents by President Isaias Efweki. In spite of this, Asmara is one of the safest capitals in Africa — if not the world. Apart from young boys trying to flog tissues and chewing gum, visitors are unlikely to be hassled and stand less chance of being ripped off than in a Western shopping mall. This is probably because tourism is still in its infancy. With the exception of the Hotel Intercontinental, which seems to be block-booked by the U.N., accommodation is basic and there is no tourist office to speak of.
Most of the sights, such as the Cinema Impero or the tank cemetery, are related to the countrys colonial heritage or its independence struggle. But for a real taste of the city, visit the main market, which sells everything from spices to shoes. Afterwards, take a break from pasta and pizzas and pop into one of the local restaurants. If youve never tasted sizzling goat meat dished up on a pillow-sized pancake, nows your chance.