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ONE EVENING DURING MY LAST WEEK IN Iran, I attended a 300-guest family wedding just outside Tehran. The women bared skin in spectacular evening wear, and young people filled the dance floor well past midnight, entertained by a female DJ. Few Iranians dare to host such events anymore for fear of raids by the authorities. I caught up with the bride and asked her how she felt about starting her married life in such uncertain times. "There are days when life feels normal and I am happy and proud to be living in my own country, whatever its problems," she said. "And there are days when outside is like a nightmare. I just hope there will be more of the normal days."