Iran: Intimidation In Tehran

On the eve of leaving Iran, a reporter reflects on this summer's crackdown on dress and behavior--and on her family's and friends' dreams for an easier future

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Morteza Nikoubazl / Reuters

An Iranian police officer tells a woman to get into a police vehicle in eastern Tehran, Iran in April of 2007. Iranian police launched a crackdown on women's dress during the summer season when soaring temperatures typically tempt many to flout the strict Islamic dress code.

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ONE EVENING DURING MY LAST WEEK IN Iran, I attended a 300-guest family wedding just outside Tehran. The women bared skin in spectacular evening wear, and young people filled the dance floor well past midnight, entertained by a female DJ. Few Iranians dare to host such events anymore for fear of raids by the authorities. I caught up with the bride and asked her how she felt about starting her married life in such uncertain times. "There are days when life feels normal and I am happy and proud to be living in my own country, whatever its problems," she said. "And there are days when outside is like a nightmare. I just hope there will be more of the normal days."

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