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The Berkshire growers are now working to crack the U.S. market. "Our philosophy was to sell it to the chefs first, then the individual consumers," says Kelly Biensen, who formed Eden Farms, the domestic equivalent of Berkshire Gold, to sell exclusively to American restaurants and online at earlyautumnfarms.com "When I told them it all comes from small family farms, they said, 'We'll try it.' That's what got us into these very white-tablecloth restaurants, but the quality's what's kept us there." Still, only about 5% of Berkshire pork is sold in the U.S., with the rest going to Japan.
Once you try it, you will understand why Berkshire pork sells for 60[cents] per lb. wholesale--about 50% more than factory-grown skinny pigs--and about $9 for a jumbo pork chop online. It's the Ben & Jerry's of pork: socially conscientious and sinfully delicious.
Berkshire pork has not put the Siebrechts on easy street, but it has allowed them to continue doing what they love. "Dale and I have been truly blessed," Lisa says. "We're trying to find a niche. It's our only hope. This is one area where we can beat the big boys."
TIME.com You can send an e-mail to John U. Bacon (no relation) at jubacon@aol.com