(3 of 3)
Gallo (like most other wineries) won't reveal its winemaking techniques but maintains that there are no additives in its wines and that its French and Italian wines meet those countries' strict production laws. But winemakers today have many techniques at their disposal: they can choose grapes carefully and blend grapes from several different vineyards. During fermentation, they make dozens of choices, such as what the temperature in the tank should be and what kind of yeast should be added. Reverse osmosis can also be used to remove excess water or alcohol; micro-oxygenation can soften a red wine's tannins so you can drink it now rather than wait a decade.
The Gallo family makes no apologies for insisting on certain qualities in its wines when it negotiates with its international partners. "We know that Americans want wines that are fruit forward," says Joe. "We know they want wines you can drink young." Some local winemakers resist the idea that Gallo tells them each step to take. But they acknowledge that Gallo looks for winemakers interested in crafting wines in a more modern style: Sieur d'Arques winemaker Alain Gayda admits his wines were more fruit forward than his rivals' even before he teamed up with Gallo.
Gallo executives say their imported wines, despite the tinkering, reflect the traditions of their local partners. "We need to develop wines of all styles from all areas, reflective of all terroirs if we are to give consumers what they want," says David Lane, senior marketing director. "They want wines that taste unique to the area." In other words, American consumers aren't looking for one mass-produced Wonder-bread wine, so why try to make, say, a French Chardonnay that tastes like one from California? That would defeat Gallo's whole purpose in pursuing international wines.
And Gallo is continuing the pursuit, critics notwithstanding. After Red Bicyclette's success, the company released a new French wine in April: Pont d'Avignon, a Côtes du Rhône from the Rhône Valley. It's about twice the price of Red Bicyclette but boasts flavors that are more complex and reflect the Rhône terroir. Da Vinci, a new Chianti that Gallo produced with Cantine de Leonardo Da Vinci's Alberto Antinoni, hit stores last year and is similarly higher priced. Like Pont d'Avignon, Da Vinci has the slick packaging of Gallo's other imports. Here too the taste is fruity, but with the tannins and acidity one should expect in an authentic Tuscan red.
Joe Gallo is already planning new international brands, from Chile and Germany. He thinks the company's New Zealand partnership has a lot of potential. "Our objective is to fill as many different niches as we can," says Gallo. It's wine on a global scale, a long way from California jug wine, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. --With reporting by Liz Keenan/Sydney, Mimi Murphy/Rome and Grant Rosenberg/Paris