The Mad Men craze made old-school cocktails popular, but for the true booze geek, you have to go back to the pre-Prohibition era. Brandy flips, gin fizzes, fish house punch drinks that Don Draper would have found unforgivably old-fashioned are where it's at now at the best bars. Why? Maybe it's because the drinks are so hard to make well. Or maybe it's because nobody living has any basis for comparison.