Goats, Americans are learning, are good for more than cheese. Goat meat, though still relatively hard to come by in the U.S., is winning over more diners because it's lean and (at least for the time being) raised mostly on small farms. Some California ranchers, however, have begun raising goats commercially, and chefs like Marsha McBride of Café Rouge in Berkeley, Calif., and Scott Conant of Scarpetta in New York City are selling dishes such as "grilled goat crepinette" and "moist-roasted capretto." Capretto, by the way, is Italian for kid.