Return to Baghdad
TIME editor and former Baghdad bureau chief, Bobby Ghosh, shows former U.S. soldier, Nate Rawlings, a side of Baghdad he never saw on patrol More »
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Photos: Iraq's Fragile Progress
In the aftermath of the troop drawdown, Iraq is still dangerous, but taking tentative steps towards normalcy More »
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A Journalist and Soldier Return
Video: Ghosh and Rawlings return to find continued danger but a fragile sort of progress More »
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Part 1: Remembrance of Patrols Past
Former U.S. Lieutenant Nate Rawlings returns to Baghdad as a civilian More »
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Part 2: A Tourist's Survival Guide
Bobby Ghosh takes Rawlings through the Iraqi capital of Baghdad More »
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Part 3: A Feast on the Tigris
Ghosh recalls the first time he shared fish by the Tigris with a U.S. soldier, just before it was too dangerous to venture out More »
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Part 4: How to Cook Carp, Iraqi-Style
Rawlings enters a Baghdad restaurant by the Tigris for a feast of traditional Iraqi fried fish More »
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Part 5: Triangle of Death
Traveling to what was once one of the most dangerous areas in Iraq, Rawlings recalls comrades lost in the war More »
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Part 6: Why the Tribes Feared U.S. Soldiers
Ghosh recalls how the Iraqis regarded the U.S. military More »
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Part 7: Where the Dead Have Become Martyrs
Bobby Ghosh finds Fallujah still proud of having made Americans pay with blood More »
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Part 8: War's Bitter Aftertaste
Rawlings finds memories of war long and unforgiving More »
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Part 9: Two Kinds of Americans
The people of Anbar province learned to prefer one kind of U.S. soldier to another More »
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Part 10: Visiting Battlefields
Rawlings visits the area around Ramadi to see how a kind of normal life is taking hold after years of violence More »
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Part 11: Touring the Tigris — and the Streets
Ghosh takes a boat ride on the river and an unusual cab ride home More »
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Part 12: On the Other Side of the River
Rawlings takes a ride on the Tigris and stops for tea in a shop reconstructed after 2007 blast More »
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Part 13: Danger on the Last Day
After a surprisingly uneventful tour of Iraq, Ghosh and Rawlings run into potential trouble More »
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Part 14: The Slowest Car Chase in History
On his last day in Baghdad, Rawlings is followed by suspicious-looking men More »
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Part 15: Combat Continues
The majority of the action for some troops has come after the decree that combat operations have come to an end More »
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Part 16: A Revived Insurgency
Ghosh meets two old Sunni contacts and discovers the bitterness that remains More »
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