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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) Lucknow, India, once the seat of the Nawabs of Awadh — princes renowned for their sybarite lifestyle — is now a down-at-the-heel city 500 km southwest of Delhi. But it retains one royal passion: food. India's finest lamb dishes derive from Awadhi cuisine, the ultimate expression of which is the delicate Kakori kebab, a cigar-shaped delight produced in a hamlet of that name half an hour's drive from Lucknow.

Local legend says it was created for a toothless prince, and it's easy to see why. Made from finely ground mutton, infused with cloves, cinnamon and other spices, the Kakori is so soft it just melts on your tongue. Slide your fork under the kebab and lift: it should be so delicate that only the section directly under the fork rises. The finest Kakori may be found at Tundey Ke, a Lucknow hole-in-the-wall started in the 19th century by a one-armed chef. My personal favorite is served at Sonargaon, the restaurant in Calcutta's Taj Bengal Hotel. You'll pay less than $10 for a taste of heaven. tel: (91-33) 2223 3939.

• BOBBY GHOSH
• This food fit for a prince is one to get your teeth into