Thursday, May. 20, 2004
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The phrases "young kids" and "relaxing French holiday" are not often heard together. But if you're yearning for Gallic culture and cuisine while also wondering how to keep your children happy, then consider the Dordogne region in southwest central France. The kids will find diversions aplenty there, with warm rural smiles greeting their antics; and a hypermarket is never far away for baby food or Band-Aids. There's an abundance of affordable family accommodation, too, from self-catering farmhouses to bed-and-breakfasts. And for gourmets, this is gastronomic heaven: the Dordogne is duck, foie gras and truffle country.
For the freedom to change plans at lightning speed (a necessity with kids in tow), hire your own vehicle. May and June are the recommended months for travel, before hordes of other self-drive tourists clog up the roads, hotels and restaurants. Early summer is also the time when the rape fields are in full bloom, allowing children and adults alike to marvel at the blaze of yellow.
The Dordogne takes its name from the largest of three rivers that cross the region. Get an overview of the river basin from the village of
Domme, improbably perched a few hundred meters up on a large limestone plateau; the pay-per-view telescopes there will keep the kids intrigued. Lower down at
La Roque Gageac a compact village at the foot of the sheer cliff face you'll find medieval ramparts and natural caves that will wow budding geologists.
Nearby is
Beynac-et-Cazenac, a village of rambling cobbled streets ascending to a 13th century castle. Its guides do a creditable job of appearing to cherish your offspring, no matter how much their cries interrupt the history lesson. Sightseeing over, refuel at the
Hotel Bonnet, tel: (33-5) 5329 5001. This converted riverside residence features a superb, child-friendly restaurant on elevated decking. Younger kids will enjoy a ride in one of the tour boats that ply this part of the river; older ones might prefer to try a canoe.
Sarlat is the Dordogne's largest medieval town. Cobbled streets and alleys lead to its cute, café-lined hub, the
Place de la Liberté, where art galleries and shops hawk handmade children's toys and souvenirs. Further north, it's your turn for a treat.
Brantôme and
Bourdeilles are delightful villages where you can lull the little ones to sleep, then sneak off for a glass of wine in a café by the river. After all that parenting, you've earned every last drop.
- ANDREW DEMBINA
- How to keep the kids entertained while you enjoy the Dordogne