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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) While the winemakers of Sicily have recently taken a shine to trendier Merlots and Cabernets, it's the ancient grapes — those that were first planted 4,000 years ago by the Greeks — that produce some of the finest wines in the region.

These lesser-known delights, such as Ansonica, Catarratto and Grillo (whites) and Nera d'Avola, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese (reds), can produce little-known winners. Reds blend generous sun-drenched fruit and fennel-like earthiness. The most appealing whites are fresh and floral. These fascinating Sicilian wines reflect the local soil and climate: accents of salty sea air, candied orange peel and minerals from the volcanic soil.

On my tasting tour, I was particularly fond of a 1997 vintage from the COS winery in Cerasuolo di Vittoria, southeast of Palermo, which is made from a mixture of the island's main grape Nera d'Avola and the strawberry-like Frappato. The seven-year-old wine ($18 a bottle) was bright, like a tart red cherry, and grounded with sunbaked plum flavors. Some of these older red wines develop delicious flavors like bittersweet chocolate and smoky tea.

If you've avoided visiting Sicily for a wine tour because you've heard that their vintners aren't up to the level of their chefs, be brave and book your ticket. My favorite wine areas are the most rugged, generally to be found east or south of Palermo. You can't walk two steps without coming across a dramatic landscape — or a delicious Nera d'Avola.

TRAVEL ADVISORY Call ahead to wineries you plan to visit to make sure they are receiving guests at the time you'll be there. And when in Sicily, enjoy these hot spots:

CANA ENOTECA A wine bar not to be missed. Via Aloro 105, Palermo; 39-91-610-1147; www.canaenoteca.it

ANTICA FOCACCERIA SAN FRANCESCO In business since 1834 and one of Palermo's most justifiably popular restaurants. Via A. Paternostro 58; 39-91-320-264; www.afsf.it

HOTEL LETIZIA Reasonably priced, attractive and charming family-run hotel in a central location. Via del Bottai 30, Palermo; 39-91-589-110; www.hotelletizia.com

• ALICE FEIRING