Quotes of the Day

Most African cities can be dangerous after dark; some are perilous even by day. Not so Asmara, the capital of Eritrea, and one of the prettiest — and most architecturally alluring — places on the continent.

Here you can walk safely throughout the city, the better to marvel at the heritage of great buildings left over from the half-century of Italian rule that ended when the Allies ousted Mussolini's troops from the Horn of Africa in 1941. There are graceful villas that seem plucked straight from an Italian hilltop, wonderful Art Deco factories and warehouses, and monumental Italian-fascist government offices.

Begin in the central market, framed by its delicate arches. Pick up some fruit or pungent Eritrean spices and wander through the back lanes toward the Catholic cathedral, an imposing red-brick edifice that dominates the skyline. Nearby Liberation Avenue, Asmara's main street, features the gorgeous Art Deco Cinema Impero and Italian-style cafes where craggy old men sip cappuccinos and smoke cigarettes.

My favorite Art Deco building is on the outskirts of town: the fantastic Fiat Tagliero gas station, which has long horizontal overhangs that jut out like giant wings from the central building. It's painted in subtle pink-and-green pastels and is soon to be converted into a disco and café.

Asmara is full of such treasures. The more you walk, the more you'll see.

• SIMON ROBINSON
• Who needs South Beach? Eritrea has some fine examples of 1930s architecture