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Youth and naivete — and, in this case, quite a few grapes — can be the perfect ingredients for success. In 1973, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, a young couple fresh out of Harvard, set out to build a vineyard in Cutchogue, N.Y. It wasn't considered an ideal spot. For centuries, would-be vintners had been discouraged by the overly sour native grapes found along the North Fork of Long Island, a narrow stretch of land some 90 miles east of New York City. Not dissuaded, the Hargraves purchased a farmhouse along with 66 acres of land, 10,000 rooted vines and a textbook titled General Viticulture.
After immersing themselves in the subject, the couple determined that the climate of Long Island was similar to that of Bordeaux, France, where a grape known as Vitis vinifera had long flourished. "We had done extensive research; we understood what the limitations were," says Louisa. The Hargraves raised both of their children on the vineyard and eventually sold the business in 1999. "We studied the situation and we felt it was a risk worth taking. If it didn't work out, we were young, and could go do something else."
But it worked out beautifully. Today the Hargraves' original vineyard produces more than half a dozen varietals, and many other vintners have followed in their grape-stained footsteps. The eastern end of Long Island — which includes the North Fork and South Fork (better known as the Hamptons)--is now a burgeoning community of vintners and wine sellers. It's home to about 30 wineries, producing more than 20 European varietals, mostly Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Compared with Napa Valley, Calif., the East End is a blip in terms of wine production--500,000 cases annually, a small fraction of California's 155 million cases, most of it from Northern California. But for a summertime excursion, Long Island offers visitors fine wines and a unique blend of East Coast charm with scenery reminiscent of southern France. "Very recently people have woken up to the fact that this is a great unexploited area," says Lettie Teague, wine editor of Food & Wine. "There are pioneers out there, people who have gained great respect."
The North Fork wineries are mostly located along two parallel roads: Route 25 (Main Road) and Route 48 (Sound Avenue), which run from Aquebogue to Orient. (See box on following page for directions from New York City and New England.) You've hit the right spot when you see WELCOME TO LONG ISLAND WINE COUNTRY signs along Route 25 in Aquebogue.
Begin your tour at Paumanok Vineyards, the first winery along Route 25. Founded in 1983 by Charles and Ursula Massoud, Paumanok produced a 2000 Merlot that was named one of Bon Appetit's Best Wines of the Year in its 2002 annual review. Half of Paumanok's tasting wines are offered free and are best enjoyed on the airy deck off the tasting room, which provides a lovely vista of the property.
If you crave live music, head to Palmer Vineyards along Sound Avenue, where the owners offer a full calendar of social events throughout the summer and fall. Bob and Lorraine Palmer's place is also a historic gem. A ramshackle 18th century farmhouse came with the property. Even though it was in dire shape, the Palmers couldn't bear to tear it down. Instead, Lorraine renovated the house with period furniture and detailing, right down to the pineapple-print wallpaper. One of the biggest events of the year is the spring Yard Sale Weekend, when the Palmers sell their excess wine at half price and people start lining up in the wee hours of the morning to have first pick.
The Castello di Borghese Vineyard & Winery, formerly owned by the pioneering Hargraves, also is host to an array of events, including live opera and art exhibitions. Located on Sound Avenue, the vineyard can be spotted from a distance by the stacks of wine barrels on the lawn. The barrels often have announcements posted on them, a tradition started by the Hargraves and continued by the Borgheses.
The vineyards typically offer an average of seven varietals ranging in price from $8.99 to $30, depending on the class of wine. But Raphael, one of the newer, snazzier wineries along Route 25, presses a higher-priced ultra-premium Merlot (about $40 a bottle). Here you'll find a tasting room and wine cellar inside a 28,000-sq.-ft. manse built in the style of an Italian monastery — a perfect place for big events.
Along Route 25 in Cutchogue is Pelligrini Vineyards, New York State's 2002 Winery of the Year. Pelligrini offers a strong selection of red blends and rose wines. With a sun-drenched deck and a high-ceilinged tasting room, Pelligrini has been host to cultural events for years; its massive concert organ plays more than 100 tunes. Nearby, on Route 25, you'll come to Bedell Cellars. It's owned by Michael Lynne, CEO and co-chairman of New Line Cinema, but operated by founder Kip Bedell. The wine, including a 1999 Merlot and a tasty raspberry dessert wine, can be sampled in a newly renovated room that features a rotating exhibit of works from Lynne's personal collection of contemporary art. A few miles down the road is Corey Creek Vineyards, also a Lynne property, which offers premium Chardonnay.
No visit to the East End of Long Island is complete without a stop at Ternhaven Cellars, a tiny shop located in Greenport. The winery is steps away from Greenport's many shops, galleries and eateries. Harold Watts, Ternhaven's owner and winemaker, is a retired Columbia University economics professor who used to tinker at winemaking in his Manhattan apartment. When he left teaching, he bought several acres and started a modest operation, the ultimate mom-and-pop winery of the area. Ternhaven's sign reads LAST WINERY BEFORE FRANCE — bragging rights earned by being the easternmost winery in the state. If you're lucky, you'll get to meet Watts. Ask to see his unusual storage tanks, which are converted dairy vats.
When you get tuckered out, head to the Greenporter Hotel and Spa in Greenport. Inside you'll find La Cuvee, a restaurant and wine bar that offers one of the area's largest selections of Long Island wines and that is excellent with food-and-wine pairings. The staff can make reliable wine recommendations as well. It's also the perfect place to sip a wine that you might have missed along the way — if you're still up for imbibing.
Thirty years is a blink in the life of a vineyard. In some aspects, these wineries are still finding their footing, looking for ways to distinguish themselves and earn praise from the finicky wine establishment. But they have preserved the near extinct agricultural heritage of Long Island and given residents and visitors alike something to drink to.
- Heather Won Tesoriero