Quotes of the Day

Even in the best of times, Lombok was the island you visited after you'd done Bali. But long-forsaken Lombok can be even more spectacular, and certainly less crowded, than its better-known neighbor. If you're looking to steal away from Jakarta for a few days, Lombok offers fantastic trekking, sensationally fresh seafood and little competition for towel space on the gorgeous white-sand beaches. Plus, since tourists are still shying away from Indonesia, you can wallow in the expert hospitality of some of the region's finest hotels and feel as if you have the joints all to yourself.

The daily flight from Jakarta arrives in Lombok in time for lunch. From the airport, a 20-minute taxi ride will deliver you to the Pool Villa Club, an exclusive resort in the heart of Senggigi, a scenic seaside town with the island's best — maybe its only — nightlife. The hotel sits just off the main road, but the resort's magnificent grounds are a world apart. The 16 individual two-story villas decorated with stylish teak furniture, muted lighting and Bose stereo systems are set like jewels on the meticulously groomed landscape. The upstairs terraces are a sublime spot to take the breakfast delivered to your room each morning, and the downstairs terrace encloses a private hot tub. Just steps away is the swimming pool, which is like few hotel pools you'll ever see. Snaking around the resort, it passes in front of each villa like a clear blue river.

When it comes time to venture out, the Gili Islands, less than an hour to the north, are a paradise for divers and snorkelers. Book a berth on a catamaran that you can charter to Gili Air, the island closest to the harbor, or further out to Gili Trawangan. Each outpost has shops that rent diving equipment — the hotel's diving center can also arrange gear — and the underwater scenery includes everything from sharks to shipwrecks. When you get back, you can drive two hours inland from Senggigi to take pictures or a dip in the waterfalls of Senaru. If you have the time and don't mind mingling with trekkers — or, during the November-to-April rainy season, relentless mosquitoes — you can continue east for an hour to Mount Rinjani; a hike up and down the volcano takes three days.

Tourists looking to be pampered would probably prefer a sunset cocktail, and possibly dinner, at the nearby Hotel Oberoi. The Pool Villa Club has two charming cafés, but the food at the Oberoi's Sunbird Caféis world class, featuring goat-cheese tarts and homemade gourmet pizzas. For a more local flavor, Senggigi has some excellent options. All you have to do is walk out to the main drag and over to the open-air Taman Senggigi Restaurant, where the waiters reminisce about Asia's economic-boom days when diners had to wait for tables. Now there are more lobsters than guests, but that means you'll be seated quickly and fed well. Brought in fresh daily, the lobsters are grilled and served with garlic butter or spicy sambal — your choice depending on how well you can handle Lombok's famous chilies. Those who like it hot might consider Lesehan Taliwang Irama in Mataram, home to some of the island's best, and spiciest, ayam taliwang. This fiery grilled-chicken dish, a local specialty, should not be missed.

The flight back to Jakarta — and civilization — departs at 4:30 p.m, giving weekenders time to do some last-minute shopping or indulge in prere-entry pampering at the Pool Villa Club's Mandara Spa. Among the offerings are sandalwood or lavender aroma therapy and two-therapist massages. A session (or two) there and you'll find yourself wondering how anyone could overlook this slice of paradise.

Short Cut
For some of the island's finest weavings, try Stagen in Sukarara, an hour south of Senggigi

The Tab
Garuda Indonesia operates daily 8:30 a.m. flights to Mataram (via Yogyakarta or Denpasar). Round-trip economy-class tickets run to $200; business class is $300. Order a Silverbird taxi [tel: (62-21) 798 1234], and get to Soekarno-Hatta airport 90 minutes before takeoff. (Access to Garuda's executive lounge is free for business travelers, $7 for economy.) Pool Villa Club's published rate is $380 per night, though rupiah rates of about $200 can be negotiated with the hotel [tel: (62-370) 693 210]

Dining
Taman Senggigi Restaurant is on Jalan Raya Senggigi, 500 meters down the main street from the hotel [tel: (62-370) 693 842]; Lesehan Taliwang Irama is located at Jalan Ade Irma Suryani, No. 10, Mataram; Sunbird Café, Hotel Oberoi, Medana Beach, Tanjung

Value Added
Day trips to the Gili Islands on a catamaran can be booked at the hotel for less than $100

• Jason Tedjasukmana
• Long a runner-up to Bali's attractions, the island of Lombok is coming into its own