While it may not be undergoing a full-fledged renaissance, Harlem has now emerged as one of New York City's great eat-and-play neighborhoods, with experiences to rival the rest of Manhattan, plus a singular mix of groove and glamour that makes the trip uptown well worthwhile. Here's how to enjoy it at its best.
MARGARITA AGUILAR
Executive director
EL MUSEO DEL BARRIO
Start in the morning at the East Harlem Cafe (1651 Lexington Avenue; eastharlemcafe.com ) for a café con leche and a chance to gaze at the Spirit of East Harlem mural one of the many that pay homage to the neighborhood's Latino history.
If you're a student or researcher, visit the Centro Archives at its new Hunter College location in the heart of East Harlem (2180 Third Avenue; centropr.hunter.cuny.edu ). The Centro has a wonderful collection of graphic art and archival resources documenting the legacy of Puerto Ricans in the U.S.
For lunch, head to El Café at El Museo del Barrio (1230 Fifth Avenue; elmuseo.org ) for empanadas and tamales. It's a taste of Pan-Latin cuisine that you'll crave for weeks afterward! If the weather is nice, cross the street to the Central Park Conservatory Garden (Fifth Avenue at East 105th Street), which has French-, Italian- and English-inspired garden styles.
Last but not least, don't miss La Marqueta (1590 Park Avenue at East 115th Street), a local market that's the place to buy authentic Caribbean ingredients.
TREN'ESS WOODS-BLACK
Third-generation owner
SYLVIA'S RESTAURANT
My perfect day is a Sunday and starts with a nice morning walk down tree-lined streets to the Abyssinian Baptist Church (132 Odell Clark Place; abyssinian.org ) for the 9 a.m. service. It sets the tone for the rest of the day and is personally special because I was married there and sung down the aisle by Roberta Flack!
I would then do as I've done since childhood and go for the Gospel Brunch and conversation at Sylvia's Restaurant (328 Lenox Avenue; sylviasrestaurant.com ). It's always overflowing with tourists and Harlem's finest, and the food is a treat for mind, body and soul.
No day can be crowned perfect without a dose of fashion shopping. Bébénoir (2164 Eighth Avenue; bebenoir.com ) is my favorite. Their signature pieces, accessories and menswear keep me not only looking good but in my husband's good graces too. The last stop before heading in to prepare Sunday supper would be wine and light eats at Nectar Wine Bar (2235 Frederick Douglass Blvd; nectarwinenyc.com ). There's a large selection of wines and tapas, which lets you try something new on every visit.
DAVID ROCKWELL
Architect
ALOFT HOTEL, HARLEM
I'd begin at Demolition Depot (216 East 125th Street; demolitiondepot.com), which is a magical, incredible place. They salvage architectural and design details from old buildings from across the city. They have four floors and a garden filled with amazing old fireplaces, doorknobs, mirrors, doors and chandeliers.
Next on my shopping list would be a visit to Isoko in the Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market (52 West 116th Street), tel: (1-212) 987 8131. The market is a great find for African textiles, masks, drums and West African home decor. But the real jewel is Francoise Muhongerwa's Isoko store and the gorgeous, handcrafted baskets and jewelry she offers from her native Rwanda.
Then I would take a stroll through the Mt. Morris Park Historic District (Lenox Avenue from West 118th Street to West 124th Street). You feel as if you've entered a turn-of-the-century New York City stage set when you walk up Lenox Avenue. The area is filled with authentic townhouses, row homes and churches from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
For afternoon indulgence, I'd visit Make My Cake (121 St. Nicholas Avenue), tel: (1-212) 932 0833, which has the best red velvet cupcakes in all of New York City. Later, at night, you'd find me at the Lenox Lounge (288 Lenox Avenue; lenoxlounge.com ), which is a real Harlem must-see. Not only is it integral to Harlem's rich musical history, but the club's original details have been wonderfully restored. My favorite spot is the Zebra Room in the back. Or I might head for the Cotton Club (656 West 125th Street; cottonclub-newyork.com ). Inside, the decor is modest, but the richness is in the music.