Quotes of the Day
In the northwest corner of Vietnam lives a vivacious mountain guide named Tung. Age 27 and single, she's almost a dinosaur by the marriage customs of her tribe, the Black Hmong, whose women wed as early as 14. On most days, all 127 cm of her are swathed in a traditional ensemble that she dyed herself using indigo, which she cheerfully says has turned her entire body blue.
Tung is one of many female guides working the Hoang Lien Son mountain range — the so-called Tonkinese Alps — home to hill tribes, cascading rice terraces and rich vegetation. The town of Sapa is the starting point for treks in the area, including the ascent of Fan Si Pan, Vietnam's highest peak at 3,143 m. Reached after an overnight train and bus journey from Hanoi, Sapa has something of a ski-town vibe. Cozy lodges offer fluffy beds, electric blankets and terraces with stunning views of the Muong Hoa Valley.
Thanh Tan Duong founded Vietnam Nomad Trails in Sapa in 2006, specializing in excursions to the less trodden areas of Suoi Thau, Nam Pung and Muong Hum. These are places where water buffalo and bamboo reign supreme, and where lush green views are interrupted only by the occasional hut or clothesline draped with embroidered hemp fabric. Overnight stays with the local Red Dao or Black Hmong tribes are easily arranged.
Duong says the local people "remain very attached to the land," but Tung says life has improved since she left her village and became an English-speaking guide. She shows little nostalgia for the years she spent harvesting rice on her family farm and carting it around in a rattan basket on her back (these days she carries her gear in a North Face backpack instead). Being able to earn an income has given her independence and enabled her to defer marriage.
"During the new-year celebrations," Tung explains, "the Black Hmong women put on their newest clothes and take an umbrella to a big party." If a man takes a woman's umbrella, it means he wants to marry her, and after an exchange of gifts of rice wine and pork, the deal is sealed. "Isn't that crazy?" Tung asks, erupting into laughter as a long umbrella swings jauntily from the strap of her backpack.
For more on guided treks in Hmong country, see vietnamnomadtrails.com.
- Roseann M. Lake
- The trekking business is a boon for Vietnam's female Hmong