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Antwerp isn't just diamonds. It's also one of Europe's largest seaports and this year's European Youth Capital — testament, perhaps, to its hot nightlife and fashion scenes. Here's how to get a quick feel for this Belgian city.

ONE HOUR: Go on foot. Arm yourself with a street map and begin in the Groenplaats, the main square. Take in the statue of Antwerp's most famous resident, Peter Paul Rubens, the great 17th century Flemish painter. Then walk a short distance to the Cathedral of Our Lady, where you can view two Rubens triptychs. Next, head northwest along cobblestone streets to the Grote Markt, a square filled with guild houses and golden statuary.

TWO HOURS: From the Grote Markt, stroll a couple of blocks south to the Museum Plantin-Moretus at Vrijdagmarkt 22, tel: (32-3) 221 1450, and have a peek at two of the oldest printing presses in the world. Then get bang up to date by browsing high-end fashion by local design graduate Dries Van Noten at his store at Godefriduskaai 36, tel: (32-3) 221 9091.

THREE HOURS: Wolf down a plateful of that great Belgian invention, waffles, at Van Hecke, Nationalestraat 88, tel: (32-3) 233 1972, the oldest waffle house in town. Then go window-shopping along Schuttershofstraat, home to big designer brands, or have a quick look at the Rubenshuis (Rubens' former home) at Wapper 9-11, tel: (32-3) 201 1555. Of course, no excursion in Belgium is complete without beer, so end your explorations at the famous Kulminator bar, Vleminckveld 32, tel: (32-3) 232 4538. It serves 700 brews, including one billed as the world's strongest. Just as well you're not driving.

Got an awful travel gripe? The Avenger may be able to sort it out for you.

• SHERIDAN BECKER
• How to get a quick feel for this Belgian city