Quotes of the Day

Elias Khoury, 58, lawyer and activist
I'd begin my day in the Old City with its diversity of people, communities and religious sites. First up is the Via Dolorosa, where pilgrims follow the steps of Jesus and stop to pray by the 14 stations of the cross. Before the third station, a climb up to the roof of the Austrian Hospice, tel: (972-2) 626 5800, provides a magnificent view as well as great coffee and apple strudel. I'd then continue on to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, tel: (972-2) 627 3314, which holds the final stations of the cross. The church is a meeting point of the many denominations of the Christian church, diverse in ornamentation and vestments.

Further on are the colorful markets of the Old City, accessed via Damascus Gate. You can pass through Souq Khan al-Zeit for fruits and vegetables and then go on to the Souq al-Qattanin, the Cotton Merchants' Market. You're rewarded there with magical glimpses of the Dome of the Rock as well as the endless wares offered by the neighborhood's African and Muslim communities. A visit to Hammam al-Ein, a 14th century Mamluk bathhouse, is also a must. Nearby is the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock and al Aqsa Mosque symbolize Jerusalem's Islamic history and traditions.

Continue on to the Armenian Quarter, where you can visit local ceramic-artisan shops and studios and experience the unique heritage of the Armenian community. The quarter's St. James Monastery is a splendid cathedral, distinguished by its lavishly tiled walls and carpeted floors.

Finally, there's Talbiyeh, a Palestinian neighborhood during the British-mandate regime in the 1920s and 1930s. If you walk through the area, you can observe the various architectural characteristics of the period. In the adjacent Katamon district, you can enjoy the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art, tel: (972-2) 566 1291.

Iftach Lustig, 29, sommelier, Mamilla Hotel
I would spend a day doing what I love best: sampling Jerusalem's endless culinary treats. I'd start in the Mahane Yehudah market, tasting the cheeses offered at Basher's Fromagerie, tel: (972-2) 625 7969, which I consider the best in all of Israel. Not only do they stock hundreds of different varieties from across the globe, they gladly explain each and every one to you. Then I'd turn my attention to falafel, Israel's national dish. Every Israeli has their own favorite falafel joint, but I'm partial to Falafel Shalom, tel: (972-2) 623 1436, which has been dishing up perfect fried chickpea balls for over 60 years. You pay a set price and get free rein over Shalom's endless toppings, from chopped salad to tahini sauce.

Next, I'd go for an aperitif at the Tzora Winery, tel: (972-2) 990 8261, just 20 minutes outside Jerusalem in a kibbutz near Beit Shemesh. It's nestled along the Judean Hills, where cool winters and short summers have resulted in a range of surprisingly sophisticated Chardonnay-style whites. Finally, I'd return to Mahane Yehuda for dinner, booking a table at its haute eatery, Mahaneyuda, tel: (972-2) 533 3442. This is one of Israel's top tables, with a menu based on the market's freshest ingredients. They're transformed into modern Mediterranean dishes, such as vinegar-spiked spareribs and black risotto with shrimp, by a trio of chefs who run their kitchen like a culinary commune.

James Snyder, 58, director, Israel Museum
For me, a day in Jerusalem means two things: history and culture. I begin at the beginning — at the Temple Mount, which, like St. Peter's Square and Red Square, feels like one of the grandest outdoor architectural spaces in the world. Then I'd head over to East Jerusalem and the Rockefeller Museum, tel: (972-2) 628 2251. It's a beautifully preserved example of British-mandate Modernism, opened in 1938 and designed by British architect Austen Harrison, who embellished its façade with relief work and graphics in Hebrew, Arabic and English.

I'd then move on to Ethiopia Street, in a late 19th century section of Jerusalem, where Jerusalem's Ethiopian Orthodox Christian community is centered around its beautifully preserved and still functioning main church. Another marvel (but relatively modern) is the YMCA, tel: (972-2) 569 2692, a great example of mandate Modernist architecture by the same architects behind New York City's Empire State Building. The structure forms a beautiful mandate-reminiscent square with the entry to the King David Hotel just opposite. On a far larger scale is my workplace, the Israel Museum, tel: (972-2) 670 8811, the best remaining example of Mediterranean Modernism and sited on a hilltop at the entrance to Jerusalem. Finally, just outside Jerusalem, in the Arab town of Abu Ghosh, is the Church of Notre Dame de l'Arche d'Alliance (Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant). Built in the 1920s on the remnants of a 5th century Byzantine church, this is thought to be the site where the Holy Ark rested en route to Jerusalem.

• DAVID KAUFMAN
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