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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) The flamboyant Florentine chef Fabio Picchi now rules all four corners of the Sant' Ambrogio quarter: his Teatro del Sale, housed in part of a former 14th century convent, is his latest stage set. The justly celebrated (and very pricey) Il Cibrèo came first in 1979, followed quickly by the more affordable Trattoria Cibreo, then the Cibrèo Caffè across the street. At the convivial Teatro del Sale, a membership fee of $7 opens the door to a buffet of creative yet nostalgic cuisine (prix fixe $32), with a theatrical revue or concert after dinner. Picchi calls his new labor of love a Circo-lo — a play on the Italian for circus and club. Picchi, 50, clearly relishes greeting guests and cooking with his crew in the open kitchen, announcing the arrival of fragrant tureens of saffron risotto, polenta with cinnamon and thick Tuscan soups like farinata (with cornmeal and black cabbage). Afterward, the chef presents the show. "I'm having fun here now," he says, "but Il Cibrèo is towing everything." tel. [39-055] 200 1492; www.teatrodelsale.com

• MIMI MURPHY
• Stage is set for some fine eating