COVER
How to Save Afghanistan
As violence subsides in Iraq, it's surging in Afghanistan. A veteran diplomat and student of the country on what it really needs — and why more troops won't help
ARTS
Le Louvre Inc.: How the World's Favorite Museum Is Richer, Bolder and Edgier than Ever (Culture)
Led by a controversial visionary, the world's favorite museum is richer, bolder and edgier than ever before
Photos: France's Iconic Museum (Culture)
Times are changing at the world's most popular museum, which is richer, bolder and edgier than ever before.
Photographs for TIME by Ulrich Lebeuf / MYOP
WORLD
Turkey: God and Country
As the rift between Muslims and secularists widens, Turkey's government finds itself in peril
BRIEFING
Sudan: The Price of Justice (The Moment)
Why charges of genocide could be a disaster for Sudan
ESSAY
Mystical Mischief in New York
An Indian marvels at the West's embrace of psychics, palmists and other mumbo jumbo
POSTCARD FROM
London: Mystery Insect Found
Even the experts are stumped by the classification of a tiny bug found under a sycamore tree
GLOBAL ADVISER
Post Modern (Diversions)
For extreme philatelists, oddball stamps are pushing the envelope
A New Rub (Living it Up)
Tibetan salt and mud from the Himalayas put a new spin on spas
Open Heart Surgeon (Next Time You're in ... Auckland)
A doctor-turned-café proprietor caters to Auckland's literati
Religious Experience (On Show)
The Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia beautifully illuminates how the faith has influenced and enriched cultures worldwide
LETTERS
Board Games after Ur (Inbox)
China's Young Athletes; Rugby and Race; Zimbabwe's Cruel Example; Ireland Votes No