COVER

Life Behind Enemy Lines (Cover Story)

TIME goes behind the lines with Saddam loyalists, religious fanatics and foreign fighters

ASIA

Taking It to the Brink

Seeking to strengthen his re-election bid, President Chen hints at independenceenraging China and causing headaches for the U.S.

BUSINESS

The Console Wars: Game On

Once synonymous with video-game success, Nintendo has hit on hard timesand its only salvation may be to stop making game consoles

GLOBAL ADVISER

Magical Christmas Markets (TIME Global Adviser | Diversions)

Get into the holiday spirit with some retail therapy in traditional surroundings

The Price of Pine (TIME Global Adviser | The Cost-Of-Living-It-Up Index)

Spruce up the living room with the most festive of all vegetation ... a Christmas tree

A Visit to Santa's Town (TIME Global Adviser | TIME Traveler)

Lapland offers sleigh rides, tours of Mr. Claus' home and a hotel made from ice

Sweet treats in the heart of Spain (TIME Global Adviser | Next Time You're In... Toledo)

Nun-made marzipan heads the list of attractions that make this former capital your one-stop Christmas shop

Customized Holidays (TIME Global Adviser | Local Fare)

Czechs like it fishy, but Europe's Yuletide traditions are wide ranging

TECHNOLOGY

China's Secret Plague (Science | TIME in Depth)

TIME tracks renowned researcher Dr. David Ho as he works to head off China's growing AIDS epidemic

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

The Lust of Exploration (Books)

In Dream Jungle, Jessica Hagedorn reveals that a nation is built as much on its fantasies as realities

Family Phantoms (Books)

Amy Tan explores family history and the mystery of memory in The Opposite of Fate

BRIEFING

Upping the Heat (Notebook)

Indonesia turns its attention to a nascent separatist movement in resource-rich Papua

Roh's Woes Continue (Notebook)

As legislators overturn a controversial veto, South Korea's President is in the fight of his life

Verbatim (Notebook)

Quotes of the Week

Letters (Notebook)

The Private Jessica Lynch