Ruth Reichl remembers the uproar when her biting 1993 story about how unknowns are treated at the chic Le Cirque restaurant appeared in the New York Times. "As my husband said, you'd think I'd exposed police corruption," she says. Now editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, Reichl made her reputation by chronicling not just the sensory attributes of food but its emotional and psychosocial qualities as well. She brings those same skills to writing about her life in Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table (Random House; 302 pages; $24.95).
The stories in both her memoirs (a widely praised predecessor, Tender...
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