In shallow tidal waters near Knight Inlet Lodge, in British Columbia's Great Bear Rainforest, I catch sight of two grizzlies, the first I have ever seen in the wild. Four-year-olds, they hang out and fool around, rather like human teenagers. Then five more bears stroll out of the forest--a female with a golden cub and another mother with two cubs. The mothers nurse the 18-month-old cubs and scoop up some of the hundreds of thousands of salmon on their way up the inlet to spawn and die. Then another bear appears, followed by tiny triplets. This excites my guide, Owen Nevin,...
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