Alaska's oil fields at Prudhoe Bay lie beneath an area of awesome beauty, still pristine and fragile. But around 750 miles to the south lies Prince William Sound, the site of one of the world's worst oil-spill disasters a decade ago when the tanker Exxon Valdez ran aground and dumped 11 million gallons of syrupy crude, creating a 500-mi.-long oil slick. Since BP Amoco is the largest oil producer in the region, it's not surprising that environmental activists closely monitor its oil-exploration operations there. Last year Paul Wenman spent several weeks trudging around the Alaskan tundra to see just how well...
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