Bwindi National Park sits on Uganda's southwestern border with Rwanda and Congo, riven by lush green valleys and sprinkled with running streams. It had always been an oasis. But since 1994, as political extremism and military violence began tearing at the region, it has been a transit center for Hutu guerrilla fighters moving in and out of Rwanda. Yet it remained a popular destination for adventure travelers in love with the idea of an Africa blessed with limitless natural beauty.
Early last Monday, death emerged from the wilderness. Deep in the park's misty hills, a band of more than 100 Rwandan...