The Yangtze is a raw, uncontrolled and sometimes destructive river sweeping through China, bringing riches to many but drowning others in its floods. And like the river, change is flooding through the nation. Fortunes are being made in private businesses, but millions of workers who depended totally on their jobs with state enterprises are being laid off. More millions are roaming the country trying to find work. Corruption has become malignant, and environmental damage is off the end of the scale.
A two-week trip starting in the town of Yibin down 1,600 miles of the Yangtze, the "Long River" that runs...