The Slow Climb

Time among the Andean ruins has its rewards

The narrow cobblestone paths girded by simple stone walls ring with the sound of mountain waters rushing through ancient canals. The scent of wood fires fills the air as villagers begin to stir. A woman dressed in traditional colorful skirts leans out to check the street. Above her, mysterious Incan ruins look back down over the valley. It is dawn, and Ollantaytambo appears the same as it has for centuries.

The village, along with the ruins of the same name, lies above Peru's Urubamba River, halfway between the city of Cuzco and the far better-known ruins of Machu Picchu. It is...

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