SIX YEARS AGO, I ARRIVED IN MONTANA TO REPORT ON THE end of the world, and I'm still here. Given all the recent goings-on, the story I came to cover seems almost cliched: a heavily armed survivalist cult, the Church Universal and Triumphant, was preparing to ride out Armageddon in the mountains north of Yellowstone Park. The roads were clogged with supply-filled U-Haul vans. In Livingston, the town where I now live, the store shelves had been cleared of staples from tampons to dried beans to rifle shells. The locals were scared, and there was talk of violence. As the appointed...
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